Lanterns in Lijiang

Lanterns in Lijiang


Yunnan province, south-western China

Lijiang is the most charming city in China according to many who have had the pleasure of visiting it. The city lies in the Himalayan foothills at an altitude of 2400m and was once an important stop along the ancient caravan route to Tibet. Even today Lijiang lies at an intersection of various routes.

Although Lijiang may be a popular tourist destination and you may even see Chinese visitors following a guide with an umbrella, while walking through the quiet streets of this city you’ll feel as if you’ve stepped 100 years back in time. Your accommodation is located in the ancient centre of the city where there is no traffic. The city centre is a muddle of paths and low-structure wooden houses built around court yards. Adjacent to the houses are small canals. In the evenings you’ll see Chinese lanterns casting a warm glow and the lantern lit bridges across the canals look like something you would see in a fairy tale. The day after your arrival you’ll go on a bike ride with a guide to a nearby village and you’ll also walk 20 minutes from your hotel to the most photographed location in China, the Black Dragon park with its temples and white mountain tops and their reflections in the lake. Lijiang’s inhabitants are also quite unique. The Naxi minority are the last people in the world to use hieroglyphic writing and the woman is the leader of the family.

Duration: 3 days/ 2 nights Departure: Daily
Comfort Level (1-5): 3 (see accommodation) Accommodation: 2 nights in double occupancy room in court yard hotel in old town (accommodation only)
Price: From AUD$169 per person - based on 2 people sharing Included: Transfer, old town protection fee, accommodation, guided bike tour
Transport: Transfer on arrival Excleded: Meals and drinks, entrance fees

Day 1: Arrival in Lijiang
 

Altitude 2400m

On arrival in Lijiang, usually at the airport if you’re coming from Xi'an or Chengdu, a transfer will take you to the ancient city centre called 'old town' or 'Dayan'. This part of Lijiang is on UNESCO’s World Heritage list and also car-free. You’ll be dropped off at the square, the last point where cars are allowed. Our representative will accompany you to your court yard hotel in the ancient centre of the city. The Ancient Town Protection Fee is included in the price of this trip. Keep the payment stub that the representative will give to you on you when out and about in the city, you’ll have to present it every time you enter the ancient city centre.

You’ll stay at a court yard hotel in a wooden house much like any other family in the city would live in. All rooms are positioned around a court yard full of plants, sitting areas, lanterns and such. When you exit the hotel you’ll step into small, interesting alleys. The staff at the reception area can provide you with a map; it’s easy to get lost in the muddle of alleys. There are many (souvenir) stores, (internet-) cafés and restaurants. Lijiang is the number one tourist destination for Chinese tourists. You’ll see many Chinese tour groups walking through old town. These groups are almost a tourist attraction in itself to most visitors; you’ll be amazed by their group behaviour. They love to buy the kitschiest knickknacks and you’ll always wonder what they are trying to take a picture of, since they are usually aiming the camera away from attractions you might find interesting.

Lanterns in Lijiang
Lijiang - Locals

The Naxi are the most important non-Chinese ethnic group in China. This may come as some surprise since most would believe the Tibetans would be. This gives some indication as to how many Naxi are living in China. Their houses are decorated with beautifully crafted wood work in panels, doors and window frames. Different from most parts of the world, the Naxi woman is the head of the household. The Naxi live in a Matriarch society. Naxi women wear traditional dress: a type of cape and a Mao-cap. You’ll probably see them in the city carrying a basket on their backs. The most unique characteristic of the Naxi is that they are the last people in the world to still use a pictogram writing style.

The markets of Lijiang are full of hard-working Naxi women doing business. The inhabitants of the mountains descend into the city on a pony to purchase their daily groceries. They sell tea and medicinal herbs at the market and promote their goods with powerful voices. They negotiate selling prices and make a living off their sales. The Naxi men are known as excellent horse breeders and are known for their passionate hobby, falcon hunting. If you look around you’ll see that many Naxi Carry these predator birds on their shoulders as pets.

The centre of Lijiang looks like a fairy tale in the evening. The small canals, bridges, cobble stone streets and wooden houses are lit up by red Chinese lanterns. During one of these mystical evenings, walk over to the concert building where there are frequent classical Tao temple music recitals. It is an almost lost Naxi tradition that was almost disappeared when all musical instruments were destroyed during the Cultural Revolution. The most well known musical group is lead by ‘Xuan Ke', a local hero. He revived the tradition together with elderly musicians and instruments.

Another unique experience during the evenings is hearing how men and women sing limericks to each other, at times from one side of a canal to another. It’s quite a lively scene! There is singing, screaming, drinking and dancing. "Houche, houche, houche"! This is not only done by the Naxi, Chinese and Western tourists usually also join in adding to the celebratory atmosphere….. you may not know what you’re singing, but it’s guaranteed to be fun!

Lijiang - Chinese lanterns
Lijiang - Dr. Ho

Day 2: Lijiang – countryside bicycle tour 

On this morning you’ll go on a bike ride in the area around Lijiang. Together with your guide you’ll ride out of Lijiang and on to a paved road with white mountain tops to the left and right of you. After about 45 minutes you’ll reach the traditional Naxi village Baisha, where you’ll park your bike and go for a walk through the streets. This village is just as beautiful as Lijiang, only less touristy and more genuine and peaceful.

The legendary herbal practitioner Dr. Ho lives in this village. He became famous when he sent medicine to people all around the world without waiting for payment to arrive first. He’s 80 years old; however he is still extremely hospitable and welcomes guests with a cup of ‘health tea’. He’ll show you newspaper clippings about him that he’s saved from international newspapers and if you like, you can even receive medical advice from him. People from the entire world have visited him for his advice and tea, even a few celebrities.

Just after noon you’ll arrive back in Lijiang and you’ll have enough time to freshen up at your hotel. Go for a walk towards the more modern part of Lijiang in the afternoon. You’ll be surprised by the stark contrast of both parts of town; in modern Lijiang you’ll see billboards, traffic and traffic lights that you won’t see in the old town.

From Waterwheel Square, the entrance to Old Town, you can walk to the entrance of the Black Dragon Pool Park (entrance fee 60 Yuan) within 20 minutes. This spectacular man-made park has a lake that reflects the Jade Snow Mountain tops when the sun is shining.

This is one of the most photographed places in China….and when you see it, you’ll understand why. Around the lake you’ll see temples, museums and stores where the Naxi present their calligraphy skills. A visit to this park is two hours of guaranteed enjoyment.

Lijiang - Black Dragon Pool Lake
Lijiang - Tiger Leaping Gorge

Day 3: Departure from Lijiang

Enjoy a few last stolen moments in the sunshine on your hotel’s patio and then this module will have come to an end. About a four hour drive south along a breathtaking road you’ll find the location of the next module, Bai villages by lakeside, such as the town of Dali. Travellers short on time that want to see all of China’s attractions in no time can fly on to the Karst Mountains at Guilin for the module Bamboo sailing through karst mountains.

If you rather explore the Yunnan province even further, you may want to travel two hours to the where the Tiger Leaping Gorge, module takes place (see picture). This gorge is one of the best locations in China for a trek. You’ll walk along the top of the gorge on a path and you’ll see the Yangtze River flowing below you. A guide will accompany you and halfway through your trip you’ll spend the night in a guest house.

After hiking the Tiger Leaping Gorge you’ll return to Lijiang for one night or you can travel along the back door route to Zhongdian, where we have the module At the foot of the Himalayas. We’ll have a car waiting to pick you up at the end of the gorge. In Zhongdian you’ll get a feeling for Tibetan family life without officially entering Tibet or needing a permit. You’ll spend the night at a Tibetan Family’s home and you’ll visit the monks at a Tibetan monastery.

 

Optional extension

An hour drive away from Lijiang lies the holy Jade Snow Mountain, 5500m high. If you decide to visit the mountain you’ll need to spend an extra night in Lijiang and you’ll need pocket money for all of the entrance fees: 120 Yuan to enter the territory, 160 Yuan for the gondola to Dry Sea Meadow at an altitude of 3050m, 40 Yuan for the gondola to Cloud Fir Meadow at 4500m (which offers a view of glaciers if skies are clear) and 62 Yuan for the gondola to Yak Meadow at 3500m for a fabulous view of the highlands. Nowhere else in the world will you climb as quickly and to such heights as in these gondolas. At first you’ll see flowering plants and flowers, later you’ll see Rocky hills, mist, cotton-like clouds and eventually thick layers of snow. Oxygen bottles can be purchased at the foot of the gondolas. 
Lijiang - Jade Snow Mountain

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